Friday, February 12, 2016

Airplanes, Mountains, Lakes, and Unparalleled Company

Our incredible friend and host, Zoé met Matt and I at the Genève airport when we arrived – dancing and squeaking with the joy we were feeling, but couldn’t express through our exhaustion. Mom and Ed wouldn’t get in for another hour, so we went to sit at a restaurant in the airport. We had café and quiche, and learned our first French phrase of the trip, “poser un quiche.” It’s a slang saying, and we won’t repeat its meaning in polite company (I’ll say only that many of you are familiar with Matt’s love of toilet humor).

Caffeinated, we returned to await Mom and Ed with as much enthusiasm as Zoé had to greet us. As they strolled down the “nothing to declare” lane after baggage claim, we danced and shouted and hugged. We managed to squeeze all the luggage into the car that Zoé rented for the day. It was a feat, as usual, but we prevailed!

In the car, Zoé taught us about how to tell where a car is from based on the license plate. A Swiss flag emblem on the left, and then a two letter representation of the canton (similar to the states of the US). GE for Geneva, VD for Vaud, where we would go later that day. Most importantly, she taught us to watch out for the French cars, who commute in to Genevè frequently, and to yell, “Bleh!” as they pass.

Zoé took us to her flat to drop off our things. It is a beautiful place!  (Photos forthcoming) We all changed, washed up a bit, and were off to adventure!  Our first stop was the recycling center – a series of trash bins on the sidewalk – where we raced to see who could empty their bag into the appropriate bin first. Zoé and Ed claimed a win, though I think it was an unfair contest due to Zoé’s experience.

We hopped back into the car and were off for a leisurely day exploring some small towns outside of Genève.  First stop was Zoé’s hometown, Coppet. She showed us the outside of the castle where her parents were married (it’s closed in the winter – can you imagine heating this whole place?).






We walked through the town, looking at the flowers that were in full bloom, including snow drops and winter aconites. Zoé and her countrymen are disappointed with the ill effects of climate change they are experiencing – there should be snow, not flowers!



We walked along the edge of Lac Leman (popularly known as Lake Geneva – a misnomer attaching only the name of the largest city along the lake), chased seagulls, and watched the ducks hunt.

 


We moved along the Lake to Nyon. We stopped in a café for some café. Zoé ordered a “tea gourmand” (literally meaning “greedy”), which is a tea that comes with a couple little desserts. We enjoyed a chocolate mousse, a crème brule, panacotta, and île flottante (“floating island”), a dessert made of egg whites.


Our last stop was after a quick, ziggety-zaggety trip up the nearby mountain, Jura. With a small overlook stop at Saint-Cergues.




On our return trip to Zoé’s flat started with playing our license plate game again. One by one, we all fell asleep in the car while Zoé drove us home.

After a short nap at the flat, we prepared a beautiful dinner and welcomed Zoé’s mother and brother, Corinne & Poulet (Romain). We had a wonderful soup of Zoé’s creation – pureed white carrots, corn, potatoes, and pumpkin with fresh Egyptian pepper and cumin.  We also dropped in some delicious gruyères to melt in the bottom. Then on to a salad of endive, cherry tomatoes, and lamb’s leaf. We also had not guacamole – avocado with tuna, pink pepper, garlic, cumin and lemon – and hummus made with lentils as opposed to chickpeas.  We finished with another amazing Zoé creation – crushed bricelets (wafers made for Christmas infused with orange flower), pear and banana compote with dried merengue, and homemade, dairy free whipped cream. Oh, and topped with chopped pistachios.   All of this with a beautiful organic red wine.


We ended the night playing greedy with Corinne and Poulet (Zoe taught them after her last trip to visit us). We tried to keep quiet for the neighbors….Not much success but no complaints. It was a fantastic start to the trip!



Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Day Four







San Gimignano was on today’s list but we kind of slept late. We took the Cabrio back to the rental place. Was sorry to see that one go! It was fun driving the ziggity-zagetty

Bought more wine (must never run out of wine!) and food! Wow the food from the grocery store was good and the deli was fantastic!

Eventually we hit the road, got lost, went thru a few alleyways in small towns, stopped at a rather unfriendly winery in Castellina, got lost some more and then eventually made it to San Gimignano. I thought it might be a real test for Allison’s foot but it turned out not to be a problem. She walked farther than Grace and I!

The food in San Gimignano was wonderful and the walled city was beautiful (first of several walled cities we visited) it dates back to the 2nd century BC and therefore is older than any city or town in America. Full of history and Renaissance culture, architecture and art, we enjoyed walking thru the streets and piazzas. And then surprise:

Drummers and more drummers, as young as ten and as old as sixty-five or so. Just wonderful!










Day Three

Nicholas really was wonderful! Found us a rental car in Gaiole and we were off. Oops, we need gas…how do we use the automatic gas station/dispenser that has instruction in Italian? Oh well, we got it and drove the back road (Rt. 222 better known to us as the “wine road”) most of the way to Florence.

I simply don’t have words to describe how beautiful was the landscape, vineyards, and villages. The winding road forced the driver to pay attention to driving but sometimes, you just had to slow down or stop to gaze around. Each new turn or crest in the road brought a new vision of beauty. From some of the higher hills, we could see for many miles.

Eventually we arrived in Florence and picked-up the new car. Florence dates back more than two thousand years and was considered the center of Italian art, architecture and culture. After finding the best parking spot of the entire trip we walked thru the Boboli Gardens behind the Pitti Palace. At its highest point, it overlooks the entire city of Florence. We didn’t want to leave…

Please note that most museums in Florence do not permit you to carry any dangerous weapons into the museum (including swiss army knives). They’ll keep it for you but don’t be late coming back to pick it up. When the office is closed, they don’t like having to go back to get a stupid tourist’s checked dangerous weapon.

We came back to the villa and over greedy and wine, told each other of our day’s travel. The others went to Sienna. We weren’t able to do it every evening but hearing the stories of where everyone went and looked at the pictures they brought back was always my favorite time of the day.

Observations:

The first wine of the day was often the best.

You learn a lot about yourself when you’re away from home.

Sharing unhurried meals will make even me eat more slowly.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Day Two

Where the hell am I?

And that smell…oh yeah, hydrogen sulfide…read about it in a book. The waters safe to drink but smells like rotten-eggs. I learned later that the water from the frig door dispenser had a filter that took all the smell away but I didn’t notice it was even connected that until later in the week.

Left-overs! God that meal last night was fantastic and there’s plenty of left-over for breakfast (actually, it lasted several days!). Coffee? Hmmm…how about espresso? Better settle for some green tea. (Ed! It’s getting long again).

BTW, it’s a national holiday in Italy. It’s the 150th anniversary of unification. It’s a BIG deal and everything’s closed, except for the restaurants and bars. Sounds like the United States…so much for a replacement for the rental car.

Speaking of the rental car, Val and Allie’s Matt went with the rental agency’s tow-truck to get the broken-down rental car. We were having language difficulties with the cooks on the previous day but and Betty’s (Villa owner) son, Nicholas, saved us. When asking the tow truck driver if he could speak English, he said “no,” Albanian…

Bought our first chianti. After drinking the villa dry last night, at least we won’t run out…

In the bedroom, I found an original edition of Winston Churchill's "History of the Second World War." Much better reading than the books I'd brought with me from home.

Gaiole is a nice little town. The church always had parking and was a convenient 2-3 minute walk to the markets and piazza. I like resting on vacation and could easily see me daily visiting the piazza for lunch and wine and then napping back at the villa. Alas it was not to be…

Friday, June 17, 2011

Day One

I’ve never done well being awake in excess of 24 hours (let alone 30 or 35, I lost count). Can’t sleep well in cars or planes... Took off an hour late and landed on time in Madrid (that was different). Madrid’s airport was cool. Big terminals with lots of shopping (but no Starbucks, believe me I looked!). Starbucks came up in discussion a few times but more about that later.

Americans have many good qualities but teaching children multiple languages isn’t one of them. Sitting in an airport restaurant (Madrid) having just dealt with the check-out person’s (he might have been from Spain but with the European Union, who knows?) roll of the eyes at my attempting to order a salad by sign language and then his speaking English (to my great relief) was the beginning of my chagrin over not having studied more with the Italian language CD that Grace had purchased. Paying was easier as I could look at the register display.

Okay this is already too long.

We got to Florence (small airport), got a brand spanking new Peugeot 5008. Bob took time a couple days earlier looking for an Alfa-Romeo but none would fit 4 people and their luggage (darn!). The Peugeot only had 24 kilometers on it and a new car smell that seemed real (Kelly told me a while back the smell comes from a spray can, oh well).

Then it broke down. Water and anti-freeze at Bob’s feet was somewhat unwanted and unexpected. SHEE-TA!

Sitting somewhere in the Italian countryside wasn’t terrible. Doing it after being awake for what seemed like a week (yes, sometimes I exaggerate), being hungry, and really needing a glass of wine made it not so much fun. Everybody was cool and we came up with credible plans to deal with the situation. Not exactly a minor feat considering no one had any more sleep than I did.

Eventually, we got to Betty’s Villa (Noeth likes driving the ziggity-zaggety) and there was food and wine (and a bathroom). Yes! (Did we play greedy?)